“Climbing guidance” for visually impaired climber Hello, everyone. I’m Kobayashi from MONKEY MAGIC(NPO). And I’m Akiyo. I’m a free climber. you know, Akiyo is twice Bouldering World Cup Champion. So she is a super super climber. Today, we show you how to enjoy climbing with visually impaired people. Akiyo, Have you done anything with visually impaired people? Usually, I talk with you and that’s all. So I’ve done neither guiding nor climbing together. Today, I’m going to learn in this show. Super climber, Akiyo has never done them neither so I want you to know various situation with Akiyo. At first, We meet at the station and then, little by little, I show you and you try them. Yes, please tell me them. Ok, let’s go! Yes! Hi, Koba Good morning, I’m Akiyo. Good morning. This wind is so strong. Yeah, it’ll be rainy. Shall we go now? Ok, Let’s go climbing. What do I connecting our hands? In this situation, I like to follow from the rear with an elbow or a shoulder. I understand. Which is the better, right or left? It depends on the person, we are glad to be questioned about it. I continue to grab this white pole with right hand, so please follow from your rear by my left hand. Ok, I guide you with my right shoulder and right elbow. Thank you. Yes, like this, I go on your behind. Ok, let’s go. Now, we cross the road at the crosswalk. Ok, thanks. Next, We are going to turn left and walk the crossroad. Here is also a crossroad. We will turn right and go straight. Turn right. Ok. Though we call “visually impaired”, In actuary, there are various kinds in visually. So It depends on a person. thereby, please ask us like “How is your visual world?” without hesitation. I think this process is important to understand each other. So, try it. Because there are many bicycles, this road is very narrow. A lot of students use bicycles. Yes, many students. Oh, A bicycle is going to come, so we avoid it. Ok, I follow you. Thank you. Like now, when we avoid something, you can steer me with moving your elbow. I feel your elbows movement and choice the best steps to walk in safety. the words like “avoid to the right” or “a step bring to the left” are kind for us. As other examples, when we make a line owing to narrow road, move your elbow behind of you and say like “make a line” … Like this? Yeah, then, we can keep safety to go through most of roads. I see. Ok, continue to go. A little bit more steps, the next is up stairs. Okey, From here, it is started, Wait a moment, we worry because we can’t imagine how much is that when we hear “a little bit more” At the time to arrive to stairs or when the situations changed, Please stop and tell us “the up stairs to climb start from here” And then, you can restart to walk. Good things for us are to stop when the situations changed and to tell us the stairs are go up or down. And also you should say “the stairs are finished” when ended. Ok, I understand. Well, we are going to go up stairs. Thanks, I follow you. We are almost the climbing wall. it was far a little bit. We have just arrived here. Thanks. Oh, voice echoes. Our front is a climbing wall and here is the well hole structure. So voice carries well. If you want to go restroom or fitting room, how do I guide you? Yes, You are a lady, but I’m a man. It’s difficult to guide, isn’t it? In those case, please take me there and introduce to me a man who you can see around there. And then, I can do those myself. Really? Yes, I do myself. So you can select some adaptation to the situation. All right. 2 people are already climbing. the voices sounds so enjoyable. I have heard these voices before… Hey, Koba!! How are you? I’m Naoya! wait a little bit because I’m navigating now! No problem! He is Naoya Suzuki. In last year (2011), he navigated me on the world cup at Alco in Italy. Wow! (The announcement is praising Koba.) (KOBA! KOBA!) Akiyo, I reintroduce you them. Yes, please. Self-introduction, please. Okey. Nice to meet you. I’m Naoya. I and Koba have known each other for 8 years. We met in United States. I heard Koba climbs various places with his eye conditions. In this 8years, I’ve been meeting a lot of people visually impaired.
And I’ve been climbing together. Last year, I trained Koba to win the world cup at Alco. This year, we practice to climb for competition in Paris, every day. Thank you. Next is Sho, please. I’m Sho Aita. I’m in the 1st year of high school. It is school for the visually impaired. Competition in Paris will be held on September in this year. Koba and I will take part in it. When did you start to climb? I think that was 3 or 4th grade of elementary school. I got more into it when I became a junior high school students. It is not so much before. well, It’s 4th year, isn’t it? I think so. Ok, from now, little by little, we’ll tell Akiyo firmly about the visually impaired person climbing. Yes, Let’s start! Please tell me all of them. Sure. Akiyo, There are 3 important points to guide the indoor climbing to visual impaired climber. What do you think they are? Hum…At first… The shape of Hold? The shape of Hold. That’s right. And? Before that, you have to tell something because they can’t see it. The place of it? Nice answer. The place of the Hold. They think “Where is it?” It is near or far? Oh, that’s distance? Yes, and the direction is also. Remember It’s “D D S”. Direction (D) Distance (D) Shape (S) Do you understand? In the first, look this. This is a clock. It’s just normal one. We can see at school. Look here. It’s 12 o’clock. if you are issued an instruction that raising your hand to the 12 o’clock direction. Which direction? Just above? That’s right. Raise your hand to the 12 o’clock direction. And, raise your hand to the 3 o’clock direction. Which direction is better? 3 o’clock. Ah, here? good. If you are said “6 o’clock” where do you bring your hand? Directly below? And…9 o’clock 12 o’clock 3 o’clock again! Perfect! It’s easy to get image, isn’t it? It’s important to tell the direction by clock hour hand. In more detail, You are said also 2 o’clock, 4 o’clock, 8 o’clock, And 10 o’clock. You have played a lot in the world of competition. So you might be able to forecast which direction of the hold is much in ordinary. For example, 10 or 11 o’clock. You can tell the visually impaired people The Hold’s directions by a clock hour hand. Yes. I try it. And next is, “D” is middle of “D D S” “D”…what’s this…? Distance? right It’s Distance. How can we share it? Already you know how tell “Direction”. We use a clock hour hand in example. And next, we want to know how far it is. You inform the distance. The distance is also big point for the visually impaired climber. So my back faces you. This red Hold. I’m grabbing this Hold with my right hand. Your next challenge is to tell climber (Koba) the Hold’s distance from this. How can you tell? Let’s try! A climber faces a wall. At first, you stretch your left arm to the fullest to 9 o’clock. And next, you shorten the arm to the fullest. This is “Nearest” or “Shortest”. We call it. Next, stretch your arm a little bit, This is “near”. And next, stretch it more. This is “normally”. Finery, stretch it full. This is “most far” If you wanna grab more far Hold, It’s “super-most far” “Maximum of far” is also good. There are no restrictions in terms. In my way, These are 5 levels like those. The point is you have to tell distance from the Hold that the climber already grabbed. You have to tell surely. The final of “D D S” “S” What’ this? Direction, Distance, … Shape? Excellent! Yes, it’s Shape. Here, I have a Hold. This is red. Akiyo, What do you look this? What? Bucket…? Bucket… Sho, what is Bucket? Bucket is good to grab… Easy to hold. Yes, very easy to hold. The person who try climbing at the first time doesn’t understand “Bucket”. so you can say “the big easy to hold” Without “Bucket”, how do you tell this to the visually impaired climber? Humm…, but, it can’t use any colors, isn’t it? It’s round…and… It’s about 15 cm … It’s easy to hold? Okey, now I pass this to Koba. See how Koba describe it. How is it, Koba? This is …. Cheese bread. Wow?! Ok then, If Akiyo make team with Koba, You call “Backet” like this Big Hold, you say “Cheese bread!” Oh, I see. “3 o’clock, super-most near, cheese bread” It’s perfect. Ok, next. How is this? ah “Sloper” is not good, is it? How is “sloper”? It is… Round…and… Hum… difficult to hold Do you like this Hold in competition? No, I don’t like it. I think so, too. Okey, Koba, how is this for you? This is… Like Cantaloupe, Smooth and slippery. ahhhh So, “8 o’clock, Smooth and slippery.” When Koba hears “super-most far, Smooth and slippery.” He may think “oh my god, it’s not easy to use so I keep it tightly” The other one, like this Zigzag looking I call “snake”. Oh I see. This is… “Thin ‘S'” Koba is perverse. After I told “It’s snake”, He says “no, no, It’s thin ‘S’!” This is a communication. It’s “S”. Final of “D D S”. You have to tell the Shape. It’s important. While I listen this story, I thought it’s most important that is the communication between coach and player. They talk and understand each other everyday. it’s necessary to get together Every time, Collusion, Cooperation, To have a good time together is important thing. “D D S” is good way to tell the visually impaired person, but In short, Mostly it is ambiguous Really? For example, it’s “2 and half” but “3 o’clock!” It’s not just one rule. So, To try is the best thing. Why don’t you try, Akiyo? Yes, Let’s try. Akiyo, What is the most important thing for safe climbing? landing? How to landing? Good the way to land is also essential for sighted person. the visually impaired person also feel very unnatural that landing facing their back so we have to tell them how to land safely Ok, take it with both hands and take off Good job You have to tell them to practice this process. Koba, it’s right isn’t it? That’s right. Somebody makes his body like a stick when he does land so, tell them some examples that are crouching or etc… when do land Yes please. Ok I do. You can start after your body up from floor. The first Hold is 10 o’clock. That is right. And there is Bucket, Next, you cross your arm and next is 10 o’clock. More right a little bit. Yes, good And next is 9 o’clock This is a Bucket that is easy to hold from right side Nice. Next is a little far. More over. Good. And put your leg to upper side. 10 o’clock normal distance. You can catch a Bucket more under one More under That’s right next, 12 O’clock, super most near That is a Bucket Next, 9 o’clock It’s a Bucket that you can hold from under side. Next, Just above, 12 o’clock It’s a small. That is difficult to hold More over a little bit More under and more left Great And then 10 o’clock, super-most near That is the goal Yes, take it with both hands. Ok! Do landing in safe Ooookey! Good job! Nice! I got it! Akiyo, your guide was very good but you can improve 3 points. Can I tell you? The first, You could do this point, When we grab the right Hold, please say us “it’s right” or “good” And we get a confidence. So we want to give the words. The 2nd , your “10 half” and my “10 half” is different. when I bring my arm to over your intent, You said “normal” but I might bring my arm not enough or too much. Then, please say “more right, more right!” or “right, right!” or “more far, more far” I want your fine-tuning like them, more and more I see And the final, A little while ago, you said “cross your arm” and “put your leg to upper side” You tell Sho about move of climbing Consider by replacing your own, When you go to climbing, You will not climb with somebody’s lecture of move, will you? Oh yes, you are right. thinking the move and trying it is the enjoyment of climbing. visually impaired person can move our own body same to others. we just have no sight. we can enjoy climbing together. Therefore We can climb with “D D S” of Holds Direction Distance Shape When we get these 3 correct, We can climb on and enjoy with everybody. so stare our climbing with awful mind like “gosh, he did cross, it’s not good” keep silent about the move when a man who have tried a lot has question to you, tell the move. I want you to guide or navigate as you normally do to others. I see it’s fun to think and to try many times That is Climbing, isn’t it? Yes I think so. I understand Ok, the visually impaired climber proficiency can climb with hands and feet tracking And more they are given Information of all Hold’s “D D S” and then they remember these and make a image of their own move. I think that is nearly same as Sighted person Blind climbing style is becoming almost perfect by “D D S”. After that the climber practice by himself and improve their levels. I want climber to challange to make move to climb with ”DDS” and try to trace certain color for your hands and feet. Finally, I have a question. When I want to teach Sho the move, How can I do this? This is a great question. For example, You say “right, xxx o’clock,” and “then, do dropknee” In this case, everyone think “What is dropknee?”. Before that, you can teach him how the dropknee is with touching you make your body to the form And the climber touch your form This process is the best way to know new skill for a visually impaired climber. today We’ve talked about how to communicate with a visually impaired person and how to enjoy climbing together with them. Please tell me your impressions Akiyo, how is yours? yes Today, I spend time with you and Sho. In face, This is my first time to walk and to climb with the visually impaired person. It’s not more difficult than I imaged before. I thought “I wandered which word is not good for them to use”, And “I have neither the experiences nor knowledge”. The important thing is to communicate with them. At first, I just try it. Today, really, really thank you. Thank you, too. How are you, Sho? Today, I had a fun time. I’ve never climbed with whom I’ve met first time. So this is nice experience. Yes, thank you. Naoya, what about you? I want the audience of this movie to try to communicate with visually impaired person they see at all climbing gym in the world. If you do it, you can discover lots of things. “D D S” and the other. You might be able to see about new training way. So let’s try it. And Akiyo also said, The most important thing is the communication. To know the man, You talk with him And you know his character And then, you can tell how is the challenge. Why don’t you try it? I want you to get this experience. Thank you. And I also have comments. there is not that much chance to connect with visually impaired person We are same to you. We have no special things. so we are not special. There are no “special things to do for them” and “special rules to contact with them” For instance, Direction, Distance, Shape are Not everything. In walking to here from a station, We did the way of guiding, That’s also not everything. as Naoya said, I agree with him what you communicate and you find out good relationship with them. what you communicate and you find out good relationship with them.
This is the most important thing, I think. My dream is that lots of visually impaired person can go to climbing gym and have a fun time. And more, I hope they can play wherever in Japan and all around the world. We, Monkey Magic, started to hold an event named “Monday Magic” once a month in Japan. The concept of this event is “Let’s enjoy climbing with all who has visually impaired and the other people” “this Hold from start is…” “ah, I see.” “Next is 10 o’clock, a little far.” “A little bit more…,more right!” “Don’t give up, next challenge!” “Come on!” “how excellent!!” (crapping hands) I hope the chance of communication will increase more and more. We wish the place Visually impaired and the other everybody can play together increase in the world. Today, thank you, everyone. Thank you! Akiyo Noguchi Sho Aita Naoya Suzuki